Wild haven was a fantastic place to be based. The countryside and views were amazing. So was the sense of peace that pervades the place without any TV. To be woken by the sound of wild elephants trumpeting was absolutely incredible. The food was delicious - for the first 2 weeks I had Indian for breakfast , Lunch and Dinner.
Lester Purdue
January , 2015
The South Indian states of Tamil Nadu, Karnataka and Kerala are a delight for the traveller. Generally considered more relaxed and laid back than the North it's the diversity which will amaze. Palm fringed beaches, cool mountain retreats, lush, sleepy backwaters and vibrant temple towns where an ancient culture is still very much alive. It has its share of dynamic and hectic modern cities too but remains predominantly a rural landscape, dotted with villages where bullock carts still creak over byroads, grain is spread out to dry in the sun and almost every field bears evidence of some earlier civilisation.
The project and accommodation are situated in a beautiful area at the foot of the Nilgiri Mountains in Tamil Nadu . With over 800 square miles of protected forest and 4 major wildlife sanctuaries (Mudumalai, Bandipur, Wyanad and Nagarhole) at the doorstep it's a paradise for bird watchers and wildlife lovers alike, yet it's only a 45 minute scenic drive from the old hill station of Ooty (at 7 - 8000 ft. the highest in South India). The local town of Masinagudi is a small but typically bustling centre where you'll find all the essentials like post office, ATM and pharmacies.
If you feel like exploring further afield it's just 110 kilometres from the historic city of Mysore with its palace, monuments and colourful market while the beaches and backwaters of Kerala can be reached in about a day travelling by bus and train or by private taxi if you prefer. Whichever way you choose, it will be an incredibly scenic journey.
Wild Haven/Wild Horizon are lovely and very welcoming guest houses...
Rooms are simple but comfortable each with en suite facilities, showers (water largely solar heated) and ceiling fans. Each also has a veranda or sit out from which you'll enjoy panoramic views over mountain and forest (and if you still want to keep in touch with the outside world free wifi is available).
The delicious regional food is freshly cooked with vegetarian and non vegetarian options available. They're always happy to prepare less spicy or continental dishes too according to your taste.
The owner, who is also the founder of the project, is local through and through. He and his team have the sort of knowledge which can only be gained from generations of first hand experience so they’re ideally placed to give you a unique insight into the history, wildlife and culture of this very special part of India.
Wildlife: This is a fantastic area for wildlife and is home to some of the largest populations of Asian elephant and tiger in the country. Leopard, sloth bear, wild dog, hyena, gaur or Indian bison,sambar and spotted deer, malabar squirrel, mongoose, several species of monkey including grey and Nilgiri langur and the ever present bonnet macaque - these are just some of the animals which can be found here along with an incredible variety of birds.
Of course, with animal sightings there are no guarantees and the cats are notoriously elusive but you'll have the benefit of being with people who were born and brought up here and know the area and its wildlife inside out.
The Nilgiris, older than the Himalaya, are a part of the Western Ghats, a chain of mountains running down the West coast of India which have been awarded World Heritage Site status by UNESCO and are a declared biodiversity 'hotspot'. Some say the name 'Nilgiri', meaning blue mountains, derives from an unusual local plant, the Kuringi flower, which blooms in 12 year cycles carpeting the slopes with its purple blue blossoms.
A number of plant and animal species are unique to the area and you'll find an amazing range of landscape here from dry deciduous scrub jungle, tropical rain forest, dense patches of ancient sholar forest and rolling open downland, all interspersed with the brilliant green expanses of the tea and coffee plantations.
At 8,650ft Dodabetta is the highest peak with a numer of others between 7 and 8 thousand feet offering many spectacular view points.
Toda settlements, Badagar villages, tea factories and plantations along with a host of magical, less visited sanctuary areas - there's so much to explore.
Ooty more properly Ootacamund or Udagamandalam, is the main town. Also known as ‘Queen of the Hill Stations’ it was originally a Toda settlement but the elevation (7,347 ft above sea level) and moderate climate led to its development as the summer capital for the Raj in South India.
The centre is now a busy jumble of old and new but it has its own charm and there are still echoes of that bygone era if you know where to look: the Ooty Club famous as the birth place of the modern snooker game, the botanical gardens, St Stephens Chuch, even their very own Savoy hotel and Charing Cross, and on the outskirts, the fading splendour of bungalows built as summer retreats for visiting maharajas or administrators.
Nearby Coonoor, at a slightly lower elevation, is surrounded by tea plantation and is famed as the home of the historic Madras Regimental Centre.
No visit to Ooty would be complete without a trip on the world heritage Blue Mountain or Nilgiri Railway. Begun in 1891 it was finally completed in 1908 and with a unique 'rack and pin'track system to tackle the steep gradient it is widely regarded as an engineering marvel. Sadly most of the journeys from Ooty to Coonoor are now operated by diesel but the longer section between Coonoor and Metapalayam is still largely hauled by steam and 12 of the original swiss built steam engines are lovingly maintained. The total journey covers some 46 kilometres and takes approximately 4 to 5 hours so there's plenty of time to enjoy the stunning scenery as it chuggs through dense jungle, tea plantation and sleepy stations with such evocative names as Hill Grove, Runnymede and Lovedale.
Climate: In the project area the elevation (around 900 MSL) gives it a pleasant year round climate with few of the extremes of heat and humidity experienced in some other parts of India (although it can still get hot, particularly in March, April and May when temperatures can reach 35 degrees). Known as a rain shadow area it doesn't receive the full force of the monsoons but there are usually some rains between June - September and again in October/November.
The hills and hill stations of course have their own climate and are usually a few degrees cooler and fresher.
For the South generally the period December - March is often considered an ideal time to travel with the climate warm and dry, though the cost of things like accommodation and backwater trips can be higher at this time.
The monsoon, a complex and unpredictable weather system which affects the whole of India, usually reaches Kerala in early June and works its way northwards, It then retreats back down the country in October/November and this is when parts of Tamil Nadu receive most of their rainfall. Some people choose to experience places like Kerala during monsoon season and it's particularly popular at this time with those seeking ayurvedic (traditional medical) treatments.
Vibrant, exuberant, contrasting, even - dare I say it - a bit chaotic at times. All the cliches have some truth in them but if you're adaptable and have a sense of humour you'll enjoy some of the most memorable experiences of your life here. Be prepared for noise, bustle and manic traffic in some of the towns and cities but you’ll never be far from a peaceful retreat in the mountains, wildlife sactuaries and beach areas with which the region abounds.
With regard to the project experience, I'm biased of course, but I don't think you could fail to be impressed by the genuine friendliness of both project and Wild Haven staff who are always ready to go that extra mile to help you. In particular, if you're nervous about travelling alone, this is one place you can be sure you'll be respected and cared for as one of the family.
If you're new to India this will be a perfect, gentle introduction and if you've already done the tourist 'hotspots' you'll find a very different India here. I've known the area for 30 years now and am still discovering hidden corners I didn't know existed.
Click for an introduction to some of South India’s highlights but remember, we can also take you off the beaten/track to give you a glimpse of hidden treasures others may not know about. To discuss the possibilities in detail and work out a personal itinerary please do contact me .